Outskirts of Coln St Aldwyns
As I mentioned in
this post, William Morris called Bibury "the most beautiful village in England". However, there are plenty of beautiful villages throughout England, and this area is especially famous for them. Lovely as Bibury is, I don't think it's even the most beautiful village in the Cotswolds.
View across the fields to Coln St Dennis
Coln St Dennis Church
Lane leading out of Coln St Dennis
If you are visiting the area, drive from Bibury down through Coln St Aldwyns and Hatherop and then turn East to Eastleach and Southerop, or drive up through Ablington and Winson to Coln St Dennis. Head a bit further south to the Cotswold water park and wander along the river path in
Cerney Wick, or venture a bit further north and take the road from Shipton-under-Wychwood to Burford via Swinbrook. You will find a whole host of beautiful villages.
Outskirts of Ablington
Bridge at Ablington
River Coln at Ablington
Periodically we go for a drive around the countryside and then get out of the car and have a walk around one of these villages. I think my favourite - of the ones I've seen so far - is Coln Rogers. To my mind it's considerably more beautiful than Bibury, so I thought I'd take a camera to both places to try to prove it.
Views across the fields to Coln Rogers
Like Bibury, Coln Rogers has the river Coln running through it, and is surrounded by fields, trees, and rolling Cotswold hills.
Outskirts of Coln Rogers
Like Bibury, it has creamy-coloured Cotswold stone buildings and a
Saxon church. (In fact, although the one at Bibury gets called a Saxon church, the current building dates from several different periods and just incorporates some remaining Saxon stonework; the one at Coln Rogers is more authentic.)
St Andrews Church, Coln Rogers
True, Coln Rogers is smaller than Bibury and has no shops or other facilities, but to my mind that's an advantage. Unlike Bibury it doesn't have tourists, which means that unlike Bibury it doesn't have a parking problem, which means that unlike Bibury it's not the site of an almost perpetual traffic jam.
Left: The river Coln at Bibury, showing a small percentage of its tourists; right: the river Coln at Coln Rogers showing all of its tourists
And unlike Bibury it doesn't have coaches or ice cream vans or big plastic rubbish bins or any of the other things which turn up whenever large numbers of people are gathered together.
Parking along the river at Bibury
Oh, and Bibury trout farm may look pretty from the front, but take the Ablington road out of Bibury and the back of it is not so picturesque.
Bibury trout farm
Don't get me wrong: I'm deliberately showing the ugly bits of Bibury. Overall it's a lovely place, and we've visited and joined the crowds of people walking round it ourselves. But it was much more enjoyable to drive round and discover other, less well-publicised villages to explore, and I can't think why more people don't do this. In Bibury, you have to share everything with thousands of other people: Coln Rogers we had all to ourselves, and everywhere I pointed my camera the views were completely unspoiled.
Views around Coln Rogers